Opening to dried fruit and savoury spice, the Zenato 2016 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico leaves no doubt that it was made with the appassimento process, which sees grapes turn into raisins before winemaking. The blend is 80% Corvina, 10% Rondinella and Oseleta and Croatina representing the last 10%. The wine is open-knit and slightly oxidative, and this suggests a near or medium-term drinking window. There is a soft dose of sweetness on the close. Production is 75,000 bottles.Monica Larner. Drink 2022-2033.